FIVE Ways To Deal With Under Eye Lines

Dr Sabba

19th November 2020

The eyes are a feature that humans are drawn to in each other and the area we focus on when having conversation with others. We communicate with our eyes now more than ever with mask wearing and the skin that frames them plays a significant part in how we look. How we look naturally has an impact on how we feel and this is what brings my patients to book that initial consultation.

Fine lines can begin to creep up on us in our mid to late twenties. Mother nature can also bring along other delights such as puffiness, sallow skin, hollowing and dark circles which can become increasingly more difficult to disguise with make-up. I personally love treating the eye area in my patients as it has such an impact on the whole face. This article will focus on the fine lines which develop under the eye area however some of the treatments discussed address multiple concerns.

 

 

What Causes Fine Lines Under the eyes?

 

The skin around the eyes is thin and delicate and hence one of the first places for wrinkles to develop. There are many external factors that can exacerbate the formation of lines which include stress, smoking, pollution, diet and of course UV damage and addressing as many of these factors as possible should go hand in hand with any aesthetic intervention.

The damage caused by certain lifestyle factors eg. smoking along with the natural ageing process leads to loss of collagen and elastin which makes the already thin skin even thinner and therefore prone to wrinkle formation.

 

So What Can Be Done?

 

1. SKIN CARE

Excellent skin care should always go alongside any injectable treatment to enhance results and maximise duration. When it comes to ingredients the goal is to protect the skin with sunscreen and antioxidants eg. Vitamin C and to stimulate collagen production with Vitamin A derivatives.

 

The Sun Is Directly Responsible For 80% Of Premature Skin Ageing

 

No skin care discussion can start without talking about sunscreen first. Responsible for 80% of premature fine lines and wrinkles, sunscreen should be worn on a daily basis to protect the skin. Look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 and this should be the last step in any morning skin care routine.

 

A long-standing favourite of mine is the Alumier Sheer Hydration SPF 40 which is a physical sunscreen containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. It has a rich, creamy texture (so you may be able to skip moisturiser) and also comes in tinted and an acne-friendly oil-free version.

 

As it is a physical sunscreen, it works by blocking out UV light and so provides immediate protection (unlike chemical filters that work by absorbing the UV light from the sun and should be applied 20-30 minutes before heading outside).

 

As well as UVA and UVB rays the sun also emits blue light aka high-energy visible (HEV) light. Blue light is emitted from our devices such as phones and laptops. If you have a darker skin type and are prone to hyperpigmentation or suffer from melasma then additional protection from blue light should be considered. ZO Skin Health Daily Sheer Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 40 provides protection against HEV light and also comes in a useful powder form to allow easy top-ups throughout the day to ensure continued protection. It absorbs very quickly into the skin for a non-greasy, sheer matte finish.

 

Some eye product recommendations:

 

ZO Skin health Eye Brightening Cream contains Vitamin A derivative retinol as well as kojic dipalmitate which together work to stimulate collagen and help lighten dark eyes.

 

Alumier Retinol Eye Gel – reasonably priced and containing 0.1% microencapsulated retinol which reduces the appearance of fine lines and crows feet by stimulating collagen production and increasing cell turnover.

 

Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid (the most potent form) also plays a pivotol role in collagen formation and has brightening properties and one of my favourites is the Obagi Professional-C serum which also has a hydrating formulation, ideal for those with drier skins.

 

 

2. SKIN PEELS

 

Another no-needle approach to addressing fine lines and creping around the eyes, skin peels work by decreasing the pH which loosens the connections between dead skin cells, inducing exfoliation and stimulating new cell growth. This process causes superficial layers of dead skin to peel off, revealing smoother and more radiant skin beneath. Skin peels can also thicken the epidermis, increase dermal volume and stimulate collagen.

A course of 3-6 treatments are usually required spaced 4 weeks apart. When undertaken in combination with a targeted and consistent skincare regimen, skin looks more radiant and feels firmer with less fine lines and wrinkling.

 

As well as addressing ageing and thinning skin, skin peels provide additional benefits with concerns such as hyperpigmentation or acne

 

 

3. COLLAGEN INDUCTION THERAPY (CIT)

 

CIT also known as micro-needling is a way of stimulating collagen production in a controlled manner. Sterile tiny needles penetrate the skin which leads to a healing cascade. The initial stage is inflammation then proliferation followed by remodelling when new collagen is laid down.

Micro-needling with SkinPen, an FDA cleared device is recommended over a dermaroller; these can drag the skin as each needle penetrates the skin at a slightly different angle which can cause micro tears. The number of penetrations that can be made with a roller is also significantly less compared to an electric pen which makes it less effective overall.  Please don’t be tempted to microneedle at home and then place serums over the skin that have not been authorised to be used in this way as this could lead to significant reactions and long-term problems.

The advantage of micro-needling is that the whole face can also be treated at the same time as well as the under eye area leading to improvements in skin texture and tone everywhere and not just around the eyes.

Results are often visible with one session but a course of three treatments are usually recommended.

 

Significant improvement in fine lines around the eyes following a course of SkinPen micro-needling

 

 

Cross-section of the skin showing how micro needling induces collagen formation and subsequent skin remodelling

 

 

4. VITAMIN INJECTIONS

 

Who doesn’t want more luminious skin as well as softening of under eye lines?  This is especially the case in the under eye area where stubborn dark circles can persist despite having a healthy lifestyle and sleeping well.  Teosyal Puresense Redensity 1 is an award-winning injectable that contains vitamins, amino acids, minerals and antioxidants. In addition to diminishing fine lines, this skin booster also brightens, hydrates and repairs the skin.

Three treatments are required spaced 3-4 weeks apart.  Treatment is tolerated very well and results are seen straight away, with full results taking 4 weeks.

 

Timeline showing the results of one vitamin injection procedure. You can see how the fine lines have softened in some areas and disappeared in others. Following a treatment course, results last 6-9 months.

 

 

5. PRP

 

Without a doubt one of my favourite treatments to improve not only fine lines under the eyes but also brighten the under eye skin and improve skin texture and thickness. A sample of blood is taken from the patient which is then spun in a centrifuge. The plasma is utilised for the procedure as this contains a high concentration of growth factors that help to heal and repair skin. This is then injected back into the under-eye area.

 

Patient selection is key and I have become a lot more selective on who I will and won’t treat with PRP. If you like being the sun and use sunbeds or sunbathe at any given opportunity or are a smoker PRP is not for you. This is because PRP relies on your own bodies ability to produce collagen and for that you need sufficient concentration of growth factors. It is known that smokers don’t have a high concentration of growth factors and so other treatment options would be better. In addition we know how UVA and UVB rays break down collagen so continuing to use sunbeds or sunbathe post procedure would cancel out any gains to be made.

 

Unlike dermal fillers, PRP can be injected right up to the lash line and even on eyelid skin.  Results can usually be seen even after a single treatment session.  It takes around 3-4 weeks for the results to develop which can last 6-12 months or longer. It’s truly magical seeing the results your own body can harness and it’s also very safe.

 

Improvement in under eye lines and general skin texture after a single session of PRP treatment

 

How Do I Decide What I Need?

 

Arranging a consultation where you can discuss your concerns and be examined is the most important step so you can be guided on the most appropriate treatment for you.

 

I hope you have enjoyed reading this, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or wish to arrange a consultation.

For further information or to book a consultation please call 020 36334908, email info@drsabba.co.uk or DM@drsabba